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    Out In The Garden...

    Floyd
    Floyd


    Posts : 4104
    Join date : 2010-04-16

    Out In The Garden... Empty Out In The Garden...

    Post  Floyd Sun Jul 25, 2010 4:01 am

    Well we finally got the garden terrace built and now filling it up. The
    garden terrace boxes are d feet deep, 3 feet wide and 8 feet long. 24'
    by 16' in an L share. We started off using the Lasagna type of formula
    and then modified it a bit for our area.

    Lasagna Gardening
    by Patricia Lanza

    Note: wet down each layer as you build the beds.

    1.
    Soak b&w newspapers in water, then overlap sections in a single
    layer directly on top of premarked sod area. This smothers the
    weeds/grass underneath.

    2. Then put a 4 inch layer of moistened peat moss over that

    3. A moist 4 inch layer of organic shredded green material in dry areas or alfalfa with manure on top of it where it rains more.

    4. Another 4 inch layer of moistened peat moss

    5. A 4 inch layer of moist compost (or yard waste in dryer climates)

    6. Repeat the peat moss/organic matter pattern until your bed is built up to at least 18-24 inches high.

    7.
    Finish with compost on top, then either let it break down for a few
    months for certain crops or plant seeds and transplants directly into
    the matrix by pushing aside layers and inserting.

    As the layers
    break down, the earthworms will be eating the sod and breaking up the
    newspapers, mixing the layers together. The final result is an organic,
    self-tilled soil that's rich and free of disease and weed seeds. It's so
    simple.

    As a bonus, no need to fertilize because the soil was
    already is rich in composting organic matter. Best of all, no soil-borne
    diseases! Truly, this style of gardening is an organic gardener's
    paradise.
    Floyd
    Floyd


    Posts : 4104
    Join date : 2010-04-16

    Out In The Garden... Empty Re: Out In The Garden...

    Post  Floyd Sun Jul 25, 2010 4:01 am

    Next, I researched companion planting on the net and came up with this
    list. I've been plotting out how to do the planting and then also
    decided to put an empty short row between a planted row so planting can
    be staggered a few weeks apart.

    Companion Planting

    • Asparagus/Tomato, Parsley, Basil

    • Beans/Herbs, Vegetables

    • Cabbage/Aromatic Herbs, Celery, Beets, Onion Family, Chamomile, Spinach, Chard

    • Carrots/Peas, Lettuce, Onion, Sage, Tomato

    • Celery/ Nasturtium, Onion, Cabbage, Tomato

    • Cucumber/ Beans, Peas, Sunflower, Raddish

    • Lettuce/ Carrot, Radish, Strawberry, Cucumber

    • Onions/Beets, Carrot, Lettuce, Cabbage

    • Parsley/Tomato, Asparagus

    • Peas/Carrots, Raddish, Turnip, Cumcumber, Beans

    • Potato/Beans, Cabbage, Horseraddish, Marigolds

    • Raddish/Peas, Nasturtium, Lettuce, Cucumber

    • Spinach/Strawberry, Faba Bean

    • Tomato/Onion, Marigold, Asparagus, Carrot, Parsley, Cucumber

    • Turnip/Pea

    Companion planting improves the micro-organisms in the soil.
    Floyd
    Floyd


    Posts : 4104
    Join date : 2010-04-16

    Out In The Garden... Empty Re: Out In The Garden...

    Post  Floyd Sun Jul 25, 2010 4:01 am

    Gardening Tips

    Planting a
    vegetable garden;
preparing the soil and
putting some extra effort into
    preparing the beds before planting will save a lot of time and effort in
    the future. Dig the bed up to break up compacted soil (this will help
    with drainage) and removing rocks and weeds as you go. Try to pull out
    as much of the weed roots as possible so that they will not come back to
    haunt you later. This is also a good time to amend your soil.

    Companion
    Plants in the Vegetable Garden
There are some plants that, when planted
    close together, will benefit each other. Likewise, there are certain
    combinations of plants that will inhibit the growth of one or both types
    of plants.

    Here are a few combinations to avoid:

    Potatoes – inhibit growth of tomatoes and squash 


    Beans – inhibit growth of onions 


    Broccoli – inhibits growth of tomatoes 


    Carrots – inhibit growth of dill 


    This isn’t to say that you can’t grow these plants together in the same garden, just don’t grow them right next to each other.

    Watering
Vegetables
    need a bit of extra care when it comes to watering. Consistent watering
    will produce successful results. If you have a large garden, you may
    want to consider a soaker hose. This will ensure that your plants get an
    even watering without getting the leaves wet and all you have to do is
    remember to turn on the house.

    Rotating Crops
assuming that you
    plan to grow vegetables more than one year, it is important that you
    rotate your crops. Crop rotation prevents building diseases up in the
    soil and preserves micro-nutrients. Rotating is not very difficult, but
    does take a little advance planning as well as a basic knowledge of the
    vegetable families. Vegetables are broken down into basic family groups.
    These groups should be rotated together as they use soil in similar
    ways and share similar pests.

    Alliums: Onions, Garlic, Scallions, Shallots, and Leeks

    Brassicas: Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Brussels Sprouts, and Kale

    Crucifers:
Turnips, Radishes, Rutabaga, and Collards 


    Cucurbits: Cucumbers, Squashes (from zucchini to pumpkin), and Melons 


    Legumes:
Peas and Beans 


    Mescluns: Arugula, Swiss Chard, Chicory, Endive, Escarole, and Radiccio. 


    Solanaceae: Tomatoes, Peppers, and Eggplant

    Perennial vegetables: Asparagus, Rhubarb and Artichokes should not be rotated and therefore should be planted separately.

    The
    rest (most vegetables are hardy or semi-hardy annuals) should be
    rotated every year on a four-year plan (so that the same family of
    vegetables is not planted in the same location within four years). This
    is easy to accommodate if you have planted four beds for your rotating
    plants and one bed for your non-rotating perennials. See where that
    advanced planning starts to come in handy?

    Raised beds 2”x10”x8’ and cut it down the middle

    Pre-drill
    holes, assemble raised beds. Use exterior deck screws (3 on end) beds
    for 4’x4’ – use untreated wood 2/3 strips goes in corners to strengthen
    for the two layers

    Add another level for higher – 2”x3” strips goes in corners vertically to strengthen for the two layers

    Healthy soil contains the following:

    Animal manure (chicken poop, horse poop have the best Ph)
    Household waste for organic compost
    Worms ariate soil too
    House, chicken poop and rabbit poop on top of the beds first. (Use hay with horse poop on it)
    Mulching with newspaper and cocoa shell (put newspaper on bottom)

    Put
    fine wire on bottom of 4'x4' raised bed - shallow roots can grow in 12
    inches.. longer roots veggies, asparagus, grapes, green pepper plants,
    berry bushes 24 inches deep would work.
    Floyd
    Floyd


    Posts : 4104
    Join date : 2010-04-16

    Out In The Garden... Empty Re: Out In The Garden...

    Post  Floyd Sun Jul 25, 2010 4:02 am

    PLANT GUIDE

    ALFALFA:
    Perennial that roots deeply. Fixes
    the soil with nitrogen, accumulates iron, magnesium, phosphorous and
    potassium. Withstands droughts with it's long taproot and can improve
    just about any soil! Alfalfa has the ability to break up hard clay soil
    and can even send its' roots through rocks! Now that is a tenacious
    plant! Alfalfa is practically pest and disease free. It needs only
    natural rainfall to survive.

    AMARANTH: A tropical annual
    that needs hot conditions to flourish. Good with sweet corn, it's leaves
    provide shade giving the corm a rich, moist root run. Host to predatory
    ground beetles. Eat the young leaves in salads.

    ANISE:
    Licorice flavored herb, good host for predatory wasps which prey on
    aphids and it is also said to repel aphids. Deters pests from brassicas
    by camouflaging their odor. Improves the vigor of any plants growing
    near it. Used in ointments to protect against bug stings and bites. Good
    to plant with coriander.

    ARTEMISIAS: See Wormwood

    ASPARAGUS:
    Friends: Aster family flowers, dill ,coriander, tomatoes, parsley,
    basil, comfrey and marigolds. Avoid: Onions, garlic and potatoes.

    BASIL:
    Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavor. Basil also does well
    with peppers, oregano, asparagus and petunias. Basil can be helpful in
    repelling thrips. It is said to repel flies and mosquitoes. Do not plant
    near rue or sage.

    BAY LEAF: A fresh leaf bay leaf in each
    storage container of beans or grains will deter weevils and moths.
    Sprinkle dried leaves with other deterrent herbs in garden as natural
    insecticide dust. A good combo: Bay leaves, cayenne pepper, tansy and
    peppermint.

    For ladybug invasions try spreading bay leaves around
    in your house anywhere they are getting in and congregating. They
    should leave.

    BEANS: All bean enrich the soil with
    nitrogen fixed form the air. In general they are good company for
    carrots, celery, chards, corn, eggplant, peas, potatoes, brassicas,
    beets, radish, strawberry and cucumbers. Beans are great for heavy
    nitrogen users like corn and grain plants because beans fix nitrogen
    from the air into the soil so the nitrogen used up by the corn and
    grains are replaced at the end of the season when the bean plants die
    back. French Haricot beans, sweet corn and melons are a good combo.
    Summer savory deters bean beetles and improves growth and flavor. Keep
    beans away from the alliums.

    BEE BALM (Oswego, Monarda):
    Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavor. Great for attracting
    beneficials and bees of course. Pretty perennial that tends to get
    powdery mildew.

    BEET: Good for adding minerals to the
    soil. The leaves are composed of 25% magnesium making them a valuable
    addition to the compost pile if you don't care to eat them. Beets are
    also beneficial to beans with the exception of runner beans. Runner or
    pole beans and beets stunt each other's growth. Companions for beets are
    lettuce, onions and brassicas. Beets and kohlrabi grow perfectly
    together. Beets are helped by garlic and mints. Garlic improves growth
    and flavor. Rather than planting invasive mints around beets use your
    mint clippings as a mulch.

    BORAGE: Companion plant for
    tomatoes, squash, strawberries and most plants. Deters tomato hornworms
    and cabbage worms. One of the best bee and wasp attracting plants. Adds
    trace minerals to the soil and a good addition the compost pile. The
    leaves contain vitamin C and are rich in calcium, potassium and mineral
    salts. Borage may benefit any plant it is growing next to via increasing
    resistance to pests and disease. It also makes a nice mulch for most
    plants. Borage and strawberries help each other and strawberry farmers
    always set a few plants in their beds to enhance the fruits flavor and
    yield. Plant near tomatoes to improve growth and disease resistance.
    After you have planned this annual once it will self seed. Borage
    flowers are edible.

    BRASSICA: Benefit from chamomile,
    peppermint, dill, sage, and rosemary. They need rich soil with plenty of
    lime to flourish. Avoid planting with mustards, nightshades (tomatoes,
    peppers, etc).

    BUCKWHEAT: Accumulates calcium and can be
    grown as an excellent cover crop. Attracts hoverflies in droves. (Member
    of the brassica family.)

    CABBAGE: Celery, dill, onions
    and potatoes are good companion plants. Celery improves growth and
    health. Clover interplanted with cabbage has been shown to reduce the
    native cabbage aphid and cabbageworm populations by interfering with the
    colonization of the pests and increasing the number of predatory ground
    beetles. Plant Chamomile with cabbage as it Improves growth and flavor.
    Cabbage does not get along with strawberries, tomatoes, peppers,
    eggplants, rue, grapes and pole beans.

    CARAWAY: Good for
    loosening compacted soil with it's deep roots so it's also compatible
    next to shallow rooted crops. Plant it with strawberries. Caraway can be
    tricky to establish. The flowers attract a number of beneficial insects
    especially the tiny parasitic wasps. Keep it away from dill and fennel.

    CARROTS:
    Their pals are leaf lettuce, onions and tomatoes. Plant dill and
    parsnips away from carrots. Flax produces an oil that may protect root
    vegetables like carrots from some pests. One drawback with tomatoes and
    carrots: tomato plants can stunt the growth of your carrots but the
    carrots will still be of good flavor.

    CATNIP: Deters
    flea beetles, aphids, Japanese beetles, squash bugs, ants and weevils.
    We have found it repels mice quite well: mice were wreaking havoc in our
    outbuildings, we spread sprigs of mint throughout and the mice split!
    Use sprigs of mint anywhere in the house you want deter mice and ants.
    Smells good and very safe.

    CELERY: Companions: Bean,
    cabbage family, leek, onion, spinach and tomato. Flowers for celery:
    cosmos, daisies and snapdragons. Foe: Corn.

    CHAMOMILE, GERMAN:
    Annual. Improves flavor of cabbages, cucumbers and onions. Host to
    hoverflies and wasps. Accumulates calcium, potassium and sulfur, later
    returning them to the soil. Increases oil production from herbs. Leave
    some flowers unpicked and German chamomile will reseed itself. Roman
    chamomile is a low growing perennial that will tolerate almost any soil
    conditions. Both like full sun. Growing chamomile of any type is
    considered a tonic for anything you grow in the garden.

    CHARDS: Companions: Bean, cabbage family and onion.

    CHERVIL:
    Companion to radishes, lettuce and broccoli for improved growth and
    flavor. Keeps aphids off lettuce. Said to deter slugs. Likes shade.

    CHIVES:
    Improves growth and flavor of carrots and tomatoes. A friend to apples,
    carrots, tomatoes, brassica (broccoli, cabbage, mustard, etc) and many
    others. Keeps aphids help to keep aphids away from tomatoes, mums and
    sunflowers. Chives may drive away Japanese beetles and carrot rust fly.
    Planted among apple trees it helps prevent scab and among roses it
    prevents black spot. You will need patience as it takes about 3 years
    for plantings of chives to prevent the 2 diseases. A tea of chives may
    be used on cucumbers and gooseberries to prevent downy and powdery
    mildews. Avoid planting near beans and peas. See chive tea on disease
    page.

    CHRYSANTHEMUMS: C. coccineum kills root nematodes.
    (the bad ones) It's flowers along with those of C. cineraruaefolium have
    been used as botanical pesticides for centuries. (i.e. pyrethrum) White
    flowering chrysanthemums repel Japanese beetles. To the right is a
    picture of the painted daisy from which pyrethrum is extracted.

    CLOVER:
    Long used as a green manure and plant companion and is especially good
    to plant under grapevines. Attracts many beneficials. Useful planted
    around apple trees to attract predators of the woolly aphid. Clover
    interplanted with cabbage has been shown to reduce the native cabbage
    aphid and cabbageworm populations by interfering with the colonization
    of the pests and increasing the number of predator ground beetles.

    COMFREY:
    Accumulates calcium, phosphorous and potassium. Likes wet spots to grow
    in. Comfrey is beneficial to avocado and most other fruit trees.
    Traditional medicinal plant. Good trap crop for slugs. More on comfrey.

    CORIANDER: Repels aphids, spider mites and potato beetle. A tea from this can be used as a spray for spider mites. A partner for anise.

    CORN:
    Amaranth, beans, cucumber, white geranium, lamb's quarters, melons,
    morning glory, parsley, peanuts, peas, potato, pumpkin, soybeans, squash
    and sunflower. A classic example is to grow climbing beans up corn
    while inter-planting pumpkins. The corn provides a natural trellis for
    the beans, pumpkins smother the weeds and helps corn roots retain
    moisture. Corn is a heavy feeder and the beans fix nitrogen from air
    into the soil. The beans do not feed the corn will it is growing but
    when the bean plants die back they return nitrogen to the soil that was
    used up by the corn. A win-win situation. Another interesting helper for
    corn is the weed Pig's Thistle which raises nutrients from the subsoil
    to where the corn can reach them. Keep corn away from celery and tomato
    plants.

    COSTMARY: This 2-3 foot tall perennial of the chrysanthemum family helps to repel moths.

    CUCUMBERS:
    Cucumbers are great to plant with corn and beans. The three plants like
    the same conditions warmth, rich soil and plenty of moisture. Let the
    cucumbers grow up and over your corn plants. A great duet is to plant
    cukes with sunflowers. The sunflowers provide a strong support for the
    vines. Cukes also do well with peas, beets, radishes and carrots.
    Radishes are a good deterrent against cucumber beetles. Dill planted
    with cucumbers helps by attracting beneficial predators. Nasturtium
    improves growth and flavor. Keep sage, potatoes and rue away from
    cucumbers.

    DAHLIAS: These beautiful, tuberous annuals that can have up to dinner plate size flowers repels nematodes!

    DILL:
    Improves growth and health of cabbage. Do not plant near carrots,
    caraway or tomatoes. Best friend for lettuce. Attracts hoverflies and
    predatory wasps. Repels aphids and spider mites to some degree. Also may
    repel the dreaded squash bug! (scatter some good size dill leaves on
    plants that are suspect to squash bugs, like squash plants.) Dill goes
    well with lettuce, onions, cabbage, sweet corn and cucumbers. Dill does
    attract the tomato horn worm so it would be useful to plant it somewhere
    away from your tomato plants to keep the destructive horn worm away
    from them. Do plant dill in an appropriate spot for the swallowtail
    butterfly caterpillars to feed on. Even their caterpillars are
    beautiful.

    EGGPLANT: Plant with amaranth, beans, peas,
    spinach, tarragon, thyme and marigold. Eggplant is a member of the
    nightshade family and does well with peppers. Avoid planting fennel near
    eggplant.

    ELDERBERRY: A spray (see insect treatments)
    made from the leaves can be used against aphids, carrot root fly,
    cucumber beetles and peach tree borers. Put branches and leaves in mole
    runs to banish them. Elderberry leaves added to the compost pile speeds
    up the decomposing process.

    FLAX: Plant with carrots, and
    potatoes. Flax contains tannin and linseed oils which may offend the
    Colorado potato bug. Flax is an annual from 1-4 feet tall with blue or
    white flowers that readily self sows.

    FOUR-O'CLOCKS: Draws
    Japanese beetles like a magnet which then dine on the foliage. The
    foliage is pure poison to them and they won't live to have dessert! It
    is important to mention that Four O'clock are also poisonous to humans
    and animals. Please be careful where you plant them if you have children
    and pets. They are a beautiful annual plant growing from 2-3 feet high
    with a bushy growth form.

    GARLIC: Plant near roses to
    repel aphids. It also benefits apple trees, pear trees, cucumbers, peas,
    lettuce and celery. Garlic accumulates sulfur: a naturally occurring
    fungicide which will help in the garden with disease prevention. Garlic
    is systemic in action as it is taken up the plants through their pores
    and when garlic tea is used as a soil drench it is also taken up by the
    plant roots. Has value in offending codling moths, Japanese beetles,
    root maggots, snails, and carrot root fly. Researchers have observed
    that time-released garlic capsules planted at the bases of fruit trees
    actually kept deer away. It's certainly worth a try! Concentrated
    garlic sprays have been observed to repel and kill whiteflies, aphids
    and fungus gnats among others with as little as a 6-8% concentration! It
    is safe for use on orchids too.

    * Try concentrated Garlic Barrier Insect Repellent!

    GERANIUM:
    -Repels cabbage worms and Japanese beetles, plant around grapes, roses,
    corn, tomatoes, peppers and cabbage. Geraniums help to distract beet
    leafhoppers, carrier of the curly top virus.

    GOPHER PURGE: Deters gophers, and moles.

    GRAPES:
    Hyssop is beneficial to grapes as are basil, beans, geraniums, oregano,
    clover, peas, or blackberries. Keep radishes and cabbage away from
    grapes. Planting clover increases the soil fertility for grapes. Chives
    with grapes help repel aphids. Plant your vines under Elm or Mulberry
    trees.

    HEMP: Repels many types of beetles which attack brassicas.

    HORSERADISH:
    Plant in containers in the potato patch to keep away Colorado potato
    bugs. Horseradish increases the disease resistance of potatoes. There
    are some very effective insect sprays that can be made with the root.
    Use the bottomless pot method to keep horseradish contained. Also repels
    Blister beetles. We have observed that the root can yield anti-fungal
    properties when a tea is made from it. (See: Horseradish: Disease)

    HOREHOUND:
    (Marrubium Vulgare) like many varieties in the mint family, the many
    tiny flowers attract Braconid and Icheumonid wasps, and Tachnid and
    Syrid flies. The larval forms of these insects parasitize or otherwise
    consume many other insects pests. It grows where many others fail to
    thrive and can survive harsh winters. Blooms over a long season,
    attracting beneficial insects almost as long as you are likely to need
    them. For best results use horehound directly as a companion plant.
    Stimulates and aids fruiting in tomatoes and peppers.

    HYSSOP:
    Companion plant to cabbage and grapes, deters cabbage moths and flea
    beetles. Do not plant near radishes. Hyssop may be the number one
    preference among bees and some beekeepers rub the hive with it to
    encourage the bees to keep to their home. It is not as invasive as other
    members of the mint family making it safer for inter-planting.

    KELP:
    When used in a powder mixture or tea as a spray, this versatile sea
    herb will not only repel insects but feed the vegetables. In particular
    we have observed that kelp foliar sprays keep aphids and Japanese
    beetles away when used as a spray every 8 days before and during
    infestation times. If you have access to seaweed, use it as a mulch to
    keep slugs away.

    KOHLRABI: May be planted with cucumber,
    onion and chives. Kohlrabi and beets are perfect to grow with one
    another! Do not plant kohlrabi with pole beans, pepper, strawberry or
    tomatoes.

    LAMIUM: This will repel potato bugs- a big problem for many gardeners!

    LARKSPUR:
    An annual member of the Delphinium family, larkspur will attract
    Japanese beetles. They dine and die! Larkspur is poisonous to humans
    too.

    LAVENDER: Repels fleas and moths. Prolific flowering
    lavender nourishes many nectar feeding and beneficial insects. Lavenders
    can protect nearby plants from insects such as whitefly, and lavender
    planted under and near fruit trees can deter codling moth. Use dried
    sprigs of lavender to repel moths. Start plants in winter from cuttings,
    setting out in spring.

    LEEKS: Use leeks near apple trees,
    carrots, celery and onions that will improve their growth. Leeks also
    repel carrot flies. Avoid planting near legumes.

    LEMON BALM:
    Sprinkle throughout the garden in an herbal powder mixture to deter
    many bugs. Lemon balm has citronella compounds that make this work:
    crush and rub the leaves on your skin to keep mosquitoes away! Use to
    ward off squash bugs!

    LETTUCE: Does well with beets, bush
    beans, pole beans, cabbage, carrots, cucumbers, onion, radish and
    strawberries. It grows happily in the shade under young sunflowers.

    LOVAGE:
    Improves flavor and health of most plants. Good habitat for ground
    beetles. A large plant, use one planted as a backdrop. Similar to celery
    in flavor.

    MARIGOLDS: (Calendula): Given a lot of credit
    as a pest deterrent. Keeps soil free of bad nematodes; supposed to
    discourage many insects. Plant freely throughout the garden. The
    marigolds you choose must be a scented variety for them to work. One
    down side is that marigolds do attract spider mites and slugs.


    * French Marigold (T. patula) has roots that exude a substance which
    spreads in their immediate vicinity killing nematodes. For nematode
    control you want to plant dense areas of them. There have been some
    studies done that proved this nematode killing effect lasted for several
    years after the plants were These marigolds also help to deter
    whiteflies when planted around tomatoes and can be used in greenhouses
    for the same purpose. Whiteflies hate the smell of marigolds. Do not
    plant French marigolds next to bean plants.
    * Mexican marigold
    (T. minuta) is the most powerful of the insect repelling marigolds and
    may also overwhelm weed roots such as bind weed! It is said to repel the
    Mexican bean beetle and wild bunnies! Be careful it can have an
    herbicidal effect on some plants like beans and cabbage.

    MARJORAM: As a companion plant it improves the flavor of vegetables and herbs. Sweet marjoram is the most commonly grown type.

    MELONS:
    Companions: Corn, pumpkin, radish and squash. Other suggested helpers
    for melons are as follows: Marigold deters beetles, nasturtium deters
    bugs and beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.

    MINT:
    Deters white cabbage moths, ants, rodents, flea beetles, fleas, aphids
    and improves the health of cabbage and tomatoes. Use cuttings as a mulch
    around members of the brassica family. It attracts hoverflies and
    predatory wasps. Earthworms are quite attracted to mint plantings. Be
    careful where you plant it as mint is an incredibly invasive perennial.
    We have found that placing mint (fresh or dried) where mice are a
    problem is very effective in driving them off!

    MOLE PLANTS:
    (castor bean plant) Deter moles and mice if planted here and there
    throughout the garden. Drop a seed of this in mole runs to drive them
    away. This is a poisonous plant. See Moles: Critter Trouble

    MORNING GLORIES:
    They attract hoverflies. Plus if you want a fast growing annual vine to
    cover something up morning glory is an excellent choice.

    NASTURTIUMS:
    Plant as a barrier around tomatoes, cabbage, cucumbers, and under fruit
    trees. Do not plant near cauliflower. Deters wooly aphids, whiteflies,
    squash bug, cucumber beetles and other pests of the cucurbit family.
    Great trap crop for aphids (in particular the black aphids) which it
    does attract, especially the yellow flowering varieties. Likes poor
    soil with low moisture and no fertilizer. It has been the practice of
    some fruit growers that planting nasturtiums every year in the root zone
    of fruit trees allow the trees to take up the pungent odor of the
    plants and repel bugs. Studies say it is among the best at attracting
    predatory insects. It has no taste effect on the fruit. A nice variety
    to grow is Alaska that has attractive green and white variegated leaves.
    The leaves, flowers and seeds of nasturtiums are all edible and
    wonderful in salads!
    Try our recipe for: Nasturtium Salad

    NETTLES, STINGING:
    The flowers attract bees. Sprays made from these are rich in silica and
    calcium. Invigorating for plants and improves their disease resistance.
    Leaving the mixture to rot, it then makes an excellent liquid feed.
    Comfrey improves the liquid feed even more. Hairs on the nettles' leaves
    contain formic acid which "stings" you.

    ONIONS: Planting
    chamomile and summer savory with onions improves their flavor. Other
    companions are carrot, leek, beets, kohlrabi, strawberries, brassicas,
    dill, lettuce and tomatoes. Intercropping onions and leeks with your
    carrots confuses the carrot and onion flies! Onions planted with
    strawberries help the berries fight disease. Keep onions away from peas
    and asparagus.

    OPAL BASIL: An annual herb that is pretty, tasty and said to repel hornworms!

    OREGANO:
    Can be used with most crops but especially good for cabbage. Plant near
    broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower to repel cabbage butterfly and near
    cucumbers to repel cucumber beetle. Also benefits grapes.

    PARSLEY:
    Allies: Asparagus, carrot, chives, onions, roses and tomato. Sprinkle
    the leaves on tomatoes, and asparagus. Use as a tea to ward off
    asparagus beetles. Attracts hoverflies. Let some go to seed to attract
    the tiny parasitic wasps and hoverflies. Parsley increases the fragrance
    of roses when planted around their base. Rose problems? See: Rose Rx
    for answers. Mint and parsley are enemies. Keep them well away from one
    another.

    PEAS: Peas fix nitrogen in the soil. Plant next
    to corn. Companions for peas are bush beans, Pole Beans, Carrots,
    Celery, Chicory, Corn Cucumber, Eggplant, Parsley, Early Potato, Radish,
    Spinach, Strawberry, Sweet pepper and Turnips. Do not plant peas with
    onions.

    PEPPERMINT: Repels white cabbage moths, aphids and flea
    beetles. It is the menthol content in mints that acts as an insect
    repellant. Bees and other good guys love it.

    PEPPERS, BELL
    (Sweet Peppers): Plant peppers near tomatoes, parsley, basil,
    geraniums, marjoram, lovage, petunia and carrots. Onions make an
    excellent companion plant for peppers. They do quite well with okra as
    it shelters them and protects the brittle stems from wind. Don't plant
    them near fennel or kohlrabi. They should also not be grown near apricot
    trees because a fungus that the pepper is prone to can cause a lot of
    harm to the apricot tree. Peppers can double as ornamentals, so tuck
    some into flowerbeds and borders. Harvesting tip: The traditional bell
    pepper, for example, is harvested green, even though most varieties will
    mature red, orange, or yellow. Peppers can be harvested at any stage of
    growth, but their flavor doesn't fully develop until maturity.

    PEPPERS, HOT:
    Chili peppers have root exudates that prevent root rot and other
    Fusarium diseases. Plant anywhere you have these problems. Teas made
    from hot peppers can be useful as insect sprays. Hot peppers like to be
    grouped with cucumbers, eggplant, escarole, tomato, okra, Swiss chard
    and squash. Herbs to plant near them include: basils, oregano, parsley
    and rosemary.

    PENNYROYAL: Repels fleas. The leaves when
    crushed and rubbed onto your skin will repel chiggers, flies, gnats,
    mosquitoes and ticks. Warning: Pennyroyal is highly toxic to cats. It
    should not be planted where cats might ingest it and never rubbed onto
    their skin.

    PETUNIAS: They repel the asparagus beetle,
    leafhoppers, certain aphids, tomato worms, Mexican bean beetles and
    general garden pests. A good companion to tomatoes, but plant
    everywhere. The leaves can be used in a tea to make a potent bug spray.

    POACHED EGG PLANT: Grow poached egg plant with tomatoes, they will attract hover flies and hover flies eat aphids.

    POTATO:
    Companions for potatoes are bush bean, members of the cabbage family,
    carrot, celery, corn, dead nettle, flax, horseradish, marigold, peas,
    petunia, onion and Tagetes marigold. Protect them from scab by putting
    comfrey leaves in with your potato sets at planting time. Horseradish,
    planted at the corners of the potato patch, provides general protection.
    Don't plant these around potatoes: asparagus, cucumber, kohlrabi,
    parsnip, pumpkin, rutabaga, squash family, sunflower, turnip and fennel.
    Keep potatoes and tomatoes apart as they both can get early and late
    blight contaminating each other.

    PUMPKINS: Pumpkin pals
    are corn, melon and squash. Marigold deters beetles. Nasturtium deters
    bugs, beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.

    PURSLANE:
    This edible weed makes good ground cover in the corn patch. Use the
    stems, leaves and seeds in stir-frys. Pickle the green seedpod for caper
    substitutes. If purslane is growing in your garden it means you have
    healthy, fertile soil!

    RADISH: One of the workhorses for
    the garden. Companions for radishes are: radish, beet, bush beans, pole
    beans, carrots, chervil, cucumber, lettuce, melons, nasturtium, parsnip,
    peas, spinach and members of the squash family. Why plant radishes with
    your squash plants? Radishes may protect them from squash borers.
    Anything that will help keep them away is worth a try. Radishes are a
    deterrent against cucumber beetles and rust flies. Chervil and
    nasturtium improve radish growth and flavor. Planting them around corn
    and letting them go to seed will also help fight corn borers. Chinese
    Daikon and Snow Belle radishes are favorites of flea beetles. Plant
    these at 6 to 12 inch intervals amongst broccoli. In one trial, this
    measurably reduced damage to broccoli. Radishes will lure leafminers
    away from spinach. The damage the leafminers do to radish leaves does
    not stop the radish roots from growing, a win-win situation. Keep
    radishes away from hyssop plants, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts
    and turnips. For some good eating try our delicious Radish varieties.

    RHUBARB:
    A good companion to all brassicas. Try planting cabbage and broccoli
    plants your rhubarb patch watch them thrive. Rhubarb protects beans
    against black fly. Some other interesting companions for rhubarb are the
    beautiful columbine flowers, garlic, onion and roses! It helps deter
    red spider mites from the columbines. A spray made from boiled rhubarb
    leaves, which contain the poison oxalic acid may be used to prevent
    blackspot on roses and as an aphicide.

    ROSEMARY:
    Companion plant to cabbage, beans, carrots and sage. Deters cabbage
    moths, bean beetles, and carrot flies. Use cuttings to place by the
    crowns of carrots for carrot flies. Zones 6 and colder can overwinter
    rosemary as houseplants or take cuttings.

    RUE: Deters
    aphids, fish moths, flea beetle, onion maggot, slugs, snails, flies and
    Japanese beetles in roses and raspberries. Companions for rue are roses,
    fruits (in particular figs), raspberries and lavender. To make it even
    more effective with Japanese beetles: crush a few leaves to release the
    smell. Has helped repel cats for us. You should not plant rue near
    cucumbers, cabbage, basil or sage. A pretty perennial with bluish-gray
    leaves. May be grown indoors in a sunny window. Rue may cause skin
    irritation in some individuals. Remedy: See cats and dogs: Rue spray.

    RYE:
    An excellent use of plant allelopathy is the use of mow-killed grain
    rye as a mulch. The allelochemicals that leach from the rye residue
    prevent weed germination but do not harm transplanted tomatoes,
    broccoli, or many other vegetables.

    SAGE: Use as a
    companion plant with broccoli, cauliflower, rosemary, cabbage, and
    carrots to deter cabbage moths, beetles, black flea beetles and carrot
    flies. Do not plant near cucumbers, onions or rue. Sage repels cabbage
    moths and black flea beetles. Allowing sage to flower will also attract
    many beneficial insects and the flowers are pretty. There are some very
    striking varieties of sage with variegated foliage that can be used for
    their ornamental as well as practical qualities.

    SPINACH:
    Plant with peas and beans as they provide natural shade for the
    spinach. Gets along with cabbage, cauliflower, celery, eggplant, onion,
    peas, strawberries.

    SOUTHERNWOOD: Plant with cabbage, and
    here and there in the garden. Wonderful lemony scent when crushed or
    brushed in passing. Roots easily from cuttings. Does not like
    fertilizer! It is a perennial that can get quite bushy. We have started
    to cut it back every spring and it comes back in not time. A delightful
    plant that is virtually pest free.

    SOYBEANS: They add nitrogen to the soil making them a good companion to corn. They repel chinch bugs and Japanese beetles.

    SQUASH:
    Companions corn, cucumbers, icicle radishes, melon and pumpkin.
    Helpers: Borage deters worms, improves growth and flavor. Marigolds
    deters beetle. Nasturtium deters squash bugs and beetles. Oregano
    provides general pest protection.

    STRAWBERRY: Friends are
    beans, borage, lettuce, onions, spinach and thyme. Foes: Cabbage,
    broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and kohlrabi. Allies: Borage
    strengthens resistance to insects and disease. Thyme, as a border,
    deters worms.

    SUMMER SAVORY: Plant with beans and onions
    to improve growth and flavor. Discourages cabbage moths, Mexican bean
    beetles and black aphids. Honey bees love it.

    SUNFLOWERS:
    Planting sunflowers with corn is said by some to increase the yield.
    Aphids a problem? Definitely plant a few sunflowers here and there in
    the garden. Step back and watch the ants herd the aphids onto them. We
    have been doing this for years and it is remarkable. The sunflowers are
    so tough that the aphids cause very little damage and you will have nice
    seed heads for the birds to enjoy. Sunflowers also attract hummingbirds
    which eat whiteflies. Talk about a symbiotic relationship!

    SWEET ALYSSUM:
    Direct seed or set out starts of sweet alyssum near plants that have
    been attacked by aphids in the past. Alyssum flowers attract hoverflies
    whose larva devour aphids. Another plus is their blooms draw bees to
    pollinate early blooming fruit trees. They will reseed freely and make a
    beautiful groundcover every year.

    TANSY: Plant with fruit
    trees, roses and raspberries keeping in mind that it can be invasive
    and is not the most attractive of plants. Tansy that is often
    recommended as an ant repellant may only work on sugar type ants. These
    are the ones that you see on peonies and marching into the kitchen. At
    least for us placing tansy clippings by the greenhouse door has kept
    them out. Deters flying insects, Japanese beetles, striped cucumber
    beetles, squash bugs, ants and mice! Tie up and hang a bunch of tansy
    leaves indoors as a fly repellent. Use clippings as a mulch as needed.
    Don't be afraid to cut the plant up as tansy will bounce back from any
    abuse heaped on it! It is also a helpful addition to the compost pile
    with its' high potassium content.

    *Tansy Warning: You do not
    want to plant Tansy anywhere that livestock can feed on it as it is
    toxic to many animals. Do not let it go to seed either as it may
    germinate in livestock fields.

    TARRAGON: Plant throughout the garden, not many pests like this one. Recommended to enhance growth and flavor of vegetables.

    THYME:
    Deters cabbage worms. Wooly thyme makes a wonderful groundcover. You
    may want to use the upright form of thyme in the garden rather than the
    groundcover types. Thyme is easy to grow from seeds or cuttings. Older
    woody plants should be divided in spring.

    TOMATOES: Tomato
    allies are many: asparagus, basil, bean, carrots, celery, chive,
    cucumber, garlic, head lettuce, marigold, mint, nasturtium, onion,
    parsley, pepper, marigold, pot marigold and sow thistle. One drawback
    with tomatoes and carrots: tomato plants can stunt the growth of your
    carrots but the carrots will still be of good flavor. Basil repels flies
    and mosquitoes, improves growth and flavor. Bee balm, chives and mint
    improve health and flavor. Borage deters tomato worm, improves growth
    and flavor. Dill, until mature, improves growth and health, mature dill
    retards tomato growth. Enemies: corn and tomato are attacked by the same
    worm. Kohlrabi stunts tomato growth. Keep potatoes and tomatoes apart
    as they both can get early and late blight contaminating each other.
    Keep cabbage and cauliflower away from them. Don't plant them under
    walnut trees as they will get walnut wilt: a disease of tomatoes growing
    underneath walnut trees.

    WHITE GERANIUMS: These members of the pelargonum family draw Japanese beetles to feast on the foliage which in turn kills them.

    WORMWOOD:
    Keeps animals out of the garden when planted as a border. An excellent
    deterrent to most insects. Don’t plant wormwood with peas or beans. A
    tea made from wormwood will repel cabbage moths, slugs, snails, black
    flea beetles and fleas effectively. The two best varieties for making
    insect spray are Silver King and Powis Castle. Adversely Powis castle
    attracts ladybugs that in turn breed directly on the plant. Silver Mound
    is great as a border plant and the most toxic wormwood. Note: As
    wormwood actually produces a botanical poison do not use it directly on
    food crops.

    YARROW: Yarrow has insect repelling qualities
    and is an excellent natural fertilizer. A handful of yarrow leaves added
    to the compost pile really speeds things up. Try it! It also attracts
    predatory wasps and ladybugs to name just two. It may increase the
    essential oil content of herbs when planted among them. Yarrow has so
    many wonderful properties to it and is an ingredient in our own Golden
    Harvest Fertilizer.

    ZINNIA: Pretty zinnias attract
    hummingbirds that eat whiteflies. Alternately the pastel varieties of
    zinnias can be used as a trap crop for Japanese beetles. All zinnias
    attract bees and other insect pollinators.
    Floyd
    Floyd


    Posts : 4104
    Join date : 2010-04-16

    Out In The Garden... Empty Re: Out In The Garden...

    Post  Floyd Sun Jul 25, 2010 4:02 am

    February Sowing:

    • Early beetroot, broad beans, spinach, summer cabbage, calabrese, globe artichoke, and lettuce in trays indoors

    • Early beetroot, carrots, lettuces, spring unions, salad leaves and spinach

    • Onions, shallots and garlic

    • Rhubarb

    • Tubers of Jerusalem artichokes from now until April

    March Sowings:

    • Sow leeks and celery, in trays, transplant into pots when ready.

    • Peas and beans

    • Early beetroot, carrots, lettuces, spring unions, radishes, leaf beet, and salad leaves seeds

    • Plant early potatoes when ground is dry enough

    April Sowings:

    • Kale, broad bean, kohlrabi, leeks and parsnips

    • Beans, courgettes, squashes, pumpkins and sweet corn under glass

    • Repeat sowings of salad leaves, rocket, parsley, coriander, carrots and spring onions.

    • Plant one-year-old Asparagus.

    May Sowings:

    • Sow brussel sprouts, broccoli, winter cabbage and kale in seedbeds.

    • Repeat sowings of peas, salad leaves, rocket, parsley, beetroot, coriander, carrots, kohlrabi and spring onions.

    • Harden off celery plants, plant out at end of month.

    • Plant out beans, squash, courgettes, sweet corn and pumpkins, towards end of month. Thin any seedlings.

    June Sowings:

    • Continue to sow French and runner beans, peas, beetroot, carrots, kohlrabi, spinach, lettuces, and all salads

    • Plant out seedlings of leeks, cabbages, celeriac, courgettes, squashes, pumpkins, calabrese, broccoli and outdoor tomatoes


    July Sowings:

    • Sow kale, spinach, Chinese greens, cabbages, radishes and winter lettuces, directly outside

    • Continue sowing all salad crops

    August Sowings:


    Sow cabbages, perpetual spinach, radicchio, winter lettuces and spring
    onions in seed-beds or pots. Sow parsley for winter cropping

    • Prepare strawberry beds and plant out runners

    September Sowings:

    • Sow swiss chard, perpetual spinach and mixed winter salad leaves

    • Order fruit bushes for winter sowing

    October Sowings:

    • Sow garlic, onion sets, broad beans and peas directly

    • Plant out seedling spring cabbage and greens until the middle of the month

    • Lift main crop potatoes

    • Sow green manure if ground is to be left till spring

    November Sowings:

    • Peas and broad beans can still be sown

    • Fruit bushes and rhubarb can be planted if the ground is good

    • Lift mint roots and divide, pot up, and put under cover for winter use

    December Sowings:

    • Onion sets can still be planted out

    • Protect bay, rosemary, and marjoram in cloches or with fleece
    Floyd
    Floyd


    Posts : 4104
    Join date : 2010-04-16

    Out In The Garden... Empty Re: Out In The Garden...

    Post  Floyd Sun Jul 25, 2010 4:02 am

    Wow, thanks for sharing this information.
    We are working on our first garden this weekend. We started a few
    seedlings inside a couple weeks ago and can't wait to get them outside.
    Your posts will be a great help to us. Thank you. Out In The Garden... Biggrin
    Floyd
    Floyd


    Posts : 4104
    Join date : 2010-04-16

    Out In The Garden... Empty Re: Out In The Garden...

    Post  Floyd Sun Jul 25, 2010 4:03 am

    Carol, this is great cheatsheet for gardeners.
    Great information!

    I have two cars and I need only one. I would exchange one with a garden with no second thought.

    We can only manage cherry tomatoes and basil in my balcony. Do not know how to make mozarella Out In The Garden... Wink Would love to have you as my neighbor forever. Out In The Garden... Smile Would learn a lot...

    Thanks for sharing!

    Out In The Garden... Wub Out In The Garden... Wub Out In The Garden... Wub
    Floyd
    Floyd


    Posts : 4104
    Join date : 2010-04-16

    Out In The Garden... Empty Re: Out In The Garden...

    Post  Floyd Sun Jul 25, 2010 4:03 am

    You would be surprised what you can grow on a balcony.. you can even
    have a mini aquaponic system during warmer climate. You can grow
    potatoes in potato grow bags, hanging bags for tomatoes and herbs. Or
    plant herbs in a rectangular planting box. Another planting box could
    have lettuce, green onions and garlic. You could have your whole salad
    fixings growing right outside your door. Out In The Garden... Tongue
    mudra
    mudra


    Posts : 23312
    Join date : 2010-04-09
    Age : 70
    Location : belgium

    Out In The Garden... Empty Re: Out In The Garden...

    Post  mudra Sun May 08, 2022 3:57 am


    Tips for our gardeners

    I found this tip to prevent tick bites in my feed today: wrapping adhesive tape around one's ankles.

    Out In The Garden... 6e343510

    As for slugs,  orange peels and some others clever tricks ( hanyone heard of copper for example ? ) are supposedly fine ways  to handle them.

    https://www.gardengatemagazine.com/articles/how-to/deal-with-pests/four-easy-ways-your-garden-of-slugs/

      Current date/time is Mon Dec 02, 2024 1:03 pm